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Poke Frisée opens in Garden City

A poke bowl with salmon, tuna, roasted eel,

A poke bowl with salmon, tuna, roasted eel, avocado and more at Poke Frisée, a new eatery in Garden City. Credit: Newsday/Scott Vogel

Getting to Poke Frisée requires a certain amount of dedication, particularly if you’re a Long Island newbie. For one thing, the just-opened eatery is in the Gallery at Westbury, a mall that is actually in Garden City. For another, there are no fewer than five towns around Long Island that claim ownership of a 900 Old Country Road address. And finally, it’s a small eatery that’s easily missed, wedged as it is between a Spuntino and Levi’s outlet.

When and if you finally arrive, however, expect an ambitious and creative spot, especially by poke standards. Among Poke Frisée’s eight “signature bowls” is one dubbed, well, Poke Frisée ($14.95), a colorful mélange of roasted eel, salmon, tuna, red cabbage, edamame and pineapple chunks neatly dressed with sesame seeds, kani salad — think crabmeat slaw — and tossed in a fine honey wasabi dressing. Although not cheap, the bowl contains a generous amount of fish and makes for a delicious and surprisingly fortifying lunch, again by poke standards.

Raw fish fans of another breed will be happy to discover a number of bento box-sized sushi rolls are also on the menu, including a Spider roll with soft-shell crab, and a Caterpillar roll with shrimp tempura (both $10.95). Regular and large sizes of Poke Frisée’s overachieving fruit bowls, each with at least nine ingredients, are also on offer ($8.50/$11.50).

The website defines poke as “a dish that appeals to both millennials’ love of food trends and Gen Z’s health-conscious eating habits.” But generations defined by earlier letters of the alphabet ought not be deterred. Poke Frisée will find fans of every age — if, that is, fans can find it.

Poke Frisée is at 900 Old Country Rd. in Garden City, 516-730-3401, pokefrisee.com. Opening hours are daily from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

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