Veteran diners who've enjoyed the continental travels of Elio Sobrero should follow him to Port Washington.
Capriccio Cafe takes over the space vacated by Montebello, at the Port Washington railroad station. Capriccio Family Style Restaurant in Hicksville has closed, but many of its popular dishes have headed northwest. Sobrero previously operated La Primavera in Hicksville (and earlier in East Hills) and was co-owner of L'Endroit, an East Hills mainstay that closed a few years ago. And he has run Capriccio, first in Syosset, then Hicksville.
All of which means you can still find that big meringue bombe dessert on Long Island, along with dishes ranging from fettuccine all'Alfredo to spaghetti and meatballs, gray sole finished with vermouth to roast duck. Add Parmigianas, Marsalas, Sorrentinos and the rest. You may order a la carte or family-style, too.
Capriccio Cafe is at 14 Haven Ave., Port Washington; 516-938-0220.