American-Italian dishes ... More »
It’s been six weeks since Portico Wood Fire Grill moved into the cavernous space last occupied by Pomodorino (which has relocated elsewhere in Hauppauge; see below).
I stopped in for dinner, which began with a margherita pizza. It had a crisp, light crust and mellifluous topping of tomato sauce, mozzarella and basil. But “chicken parm” panzarotti – little fried dumplings – were on the oily side. So, too, was chicken breast stuffed with prosciutto and mozzarella over fettuccine in a lemon-herb-white wine sauce, a heavy-handed presentation. Best, by far, was a spicy, juicy andouille sausage-crusted pork chop: pig topped with more pig. Hard to beat that combination.
Portico Wood Fire Grill is at 648 Motor Pkwy., Hauppauge, 631-849-3661, porticogrill.com.