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Prime Burgers, Albertson: First bites

The "Prime burger" at Prime Burgers in Albertson

The "Prime burger" at Prime Burgers in Albertson Credit: Newsday/Joan Reminick

While the new Prime Burgers in Albertson may have undergone a redecorating job, the place still has the look of its former self, Deli on Rye. Perhaps that’s because the deli counter is still in place, its glass showcase filled with soda bottles instead of salami.

A recent dinner starts auspiciously with savory light-textured crabcakes plated with a lemon rémoulade and mustard vinaigrette ($13). Chef Justin Gaines, who worked at Bouchon Bakery in Manhattan, turns out a first-rate mac and cheese ($12): al dente orrechiete in a creamy blend of goat, Cheddar, Parmesan and mascarpone, kicked up with truffle oil and chives, capped with crunchy bread crumbs.

The namesake Prime Burger ($11.75), though, comes out medium rather than rare, as requested. While it's beefy and juicy, its exterior seems to crumble. Even so, the whole composition — bacon, avocado mousse, Gruyere, lettuce, roasted plum tomatoes and red onion on a brioche bun — makes for flavorful eating. And I can't lay off the excellent hand-cut fries, stylishly served on the side in a metal canister.

Prime Burgers is at 1008 Willis Ave., Albertson, 516-621-2471

Pictured above: The ”Prime burger” at Prime Burgers in Albertson

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