A reader’s letter (the old-fashioned kind, not an email) drew me to Glen Cove's Il Forno Trattoria, a little pizzeria on one side and a surprisingly big Italian restaurant on the other.
The night I went, a singer regaled the dining room with Italian standards. He was good, but I was more interested in chef-co-owner Salvatore Apetino's 12-inch Margherita pizza ($12) from the restaurant’s namesake wood-burning oven (forno). The beautifully charred crust had a light, wheaten flavor, with a vibrant tomato, basil and fresh mozzarella topping.
From that oven, as well, came the bread for a panino, glistening with olive oil. The “tricolore” version ($9) featured bresaola (air-dried beef) with arugula, fresh mozzarella and cherry tomatoes. Just glorious.
Also tasted: linguine allo scoglio ($16), a medley of nicely cooked shrimp, mussels, clams and squid in a light marinara sauce over al dente pasta. Other standouts: penette alla Caprese ($14) — penne with fresh tomato, buffalo mozzarella and basil. And pappardelle alla Romana ($16) — fresh wide noodles with sausage, porcini mushrooms and tomato sauce.
A big plus: Warm, efficient service.
Il Forno Trattoria is at 242 Glen Cove Ave., Glen Cove; 516-277-2882