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Primo pizza, pasta, panini @ Il Forno, Glen Cove

Tricolore panino at Il Forno Trattoria in Glen

Tricolore panino at Il Forno Trattoria in Glen Cove Photo Credit: Newsday, 2011 / Joan Reminick

A reader’s letter (the old-fashioned kind, not an email) drew me to Glen Cove's Il Forno Trattoria, a little pizzeria on one side and a surprisingly big Italian restaurant on the other.

The night I went, a singer regaled the dining room with Italian standards. He was good, but I was more interested in chef-co-owner Salvatore Apetino's 12-inch Margherita pizza ($12)  from the restaurant’s namesake wood-burning oven (forno). The beautifully charred crust had a light, wheaten flavor, with a vibrant tomato, basil and fresh mozzarella topping.

From that oven, as well, came the bread for a panino, glistening with olive oil. The “tricolore” version ($9) featured bresaola (air-dried beef) with arugula, fresh mozzarella and cherry tomatoes. Just glorious.

Also tasted: linguine allo scoglio ($16), a medley of nicely cooked shrimp, mussels, clams and squid in a light marinara sauce over al dente pasta. Other standouts: penette alla Caprese ($14) — penne with fresh tomato, buffalo mozzarella and basil. And pappardelle alla Romana ($16) — fresh wide noodles with sausage, porcini mushrooms and tomato sauce.

A big plus: Warm, efficient service.

Il Forno Trattoria is at 242 Glen Cove Ave., Glen Cove; 516-277-2882
 

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