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Ra-Kang Thai Cuisine in Long Beach: First bites

A red curry with shrimp at Ra-Kang, serving

A red curry with shrimp at Ra-Kang, serving Thai food in Long Beach in September 2014 Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick

On a temperate but breezy night not long ago, the front wall of the new Ra-Kang Thai Cuisine was open to the street, as were the windows. The effect was of dining in an open-air pavilion.

Dinner began with a bowl of chicken and coconut soup ($5.95), milky and nuanced. Better yet was the slyly spicy tom yum soup with shrimp ($5.95). There were plenty of plump shrimp in a red curry ($12.95) laced with bamboo shoots, eggplant and peppers. And chicken with peppercorns ($12.95), requested spicy, was a firecracker of a dish featuring strings of fresh green peppercorns.

Ra-Kang Thai Cuisine is at 895 W. Beech Street, Long Beach, 516-442-1313,