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Hicksville, N.Y. --- March 2010 --- An appetizer

Hicksville, N.Y. --- March 2010 --- An appetizer platter at Rangmahal in Hicksville . ( Newsday Photo/ Peter Gianotti) ltc Photo Credit: Newsday/Peter Gianotti

Rangmahal is one of the veteran Indian restaurants along Broadway in Hicksville. It has been consistent over the years. And these days, the crowded eatery is a magnet for anyone who needs a jolt of spice.

They'll ask how spicy you'd like the dishes designated with a little red pepper. The scale: 1 to 10. By the time you reach 8, you may need an asbestos liner. But it's not harsh spicing. Actually, it's very balanced and quite good, especially with the vindaloos, chicken-lamb-goat-or-fish; chana masala, the chick pea course; and vegetables with red chilies.

But Rangmahal cools off with overdone vegetable fritters and spinach kebabs and cashew rolls. Try the samosas instead, and savor the house's fine breads.

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