Grana, known for its excellent pizzas, has updated the menu with plenty of regional Italian dishes. If you haven't been there in a while, you'll find a different and even more appetizing selection.
The newer fare at the "antica trattoria" includes savory housemade ravioli, inspired by the city of Bergamo, with roasted meats, pear, and raisins, sauced with pancetta, rosemary, roasted pear, butter and white wine; and beet ravioli with ricotta and mascarpone cheese, a mainstay from the Veneto, served with toasted poppy seed butter sauce and Parmesan cheese.
And you'll find cacio e pepe, the Roman classic of spaghetti, pecorino cheese and freshly cracked pepper; agnolotti with Gorgonzola cheese, pear, and walnuts; puntarelle greens dressed with anchovy, garlic and lemon; marinated white anchovies with fennel and arugula; and a Piedmontese-style beef stew.
Devotees of Dave Plath's delectable, wood-fired pizzas will find a new marinara pie in the mix, which go from a marvelous Margherita to the remarkable Rosa Bianca, with sliced local potatoes, red onion, rosemary, Parmesan cheese, and olive oil. Also, be sure to sample the fig, caramelized onion, aged mozzarella, and Gorgonzola cream pizza.
Grana, 1556 Main Rd. (Route 25), Jamesport; 631-779-2844.