The party has started on Franklin Avenue.
Revel, aptly named and jammed on the weekend, is the new attraction on Garden City's restaurant row, cooking in the former site of the Viking Culinary Center.
The airy spot is sharp in the look and on the plate. Lots of hard surfaces and a very busy bar make it noisy. But there's a slightly quieter, more traditional dining area behind the bar.
In either room, enjoy the snappy cuisine of chef David Martinez, whose experience includes stints at Bouley and Aureole in Manhattan.
His Arctic char tartare is a refreshing opener, flecked with shallot and spurred by lemon verbena crema, and shaved fennel-and-celery salad. The marinated, warm olives, with garlic confit and a hint of orange zest, are good company to go with drinks.
Revel prepares standout steaks, among flavorful New York strip and filet mignon. And snowy Chatham cod, complemented by a cauliflower-and-green apple puree, chard and a micro-celery and apple salad, is a mild, fine choice.
Revel, 835 Franklin Ave., Garden City; 516-246-9111.