Trata Estiatorio in Roslyn, a three-star restaurant for seafood and Greek fare, keeps the crowd cool with dessert.
On a steamy night, after you've finished the house's savory spreads and maybe a whole, grilled fish, you'll find refreshment with some terrific ice creams. The flavors include a nutty baklava and licorice-driven ouzo. If these seem too exotic, there's a fine fig, too. Just as good, and tasting equally rich, is the excellent trio of Greek yogurt desserts, with nuts and fruits.
The restaurant itself embodies the bubble-within-a-bubble economy that exists in a few parts of Nassau and Suffolk. Some high prices don't deter too many diners here. The place was packed and pulsating last night, from the bar to the dining room, the alfresco tables to the indoor. Then again, maybe the recession really is over. And, if so, this is a place to hold the celebration.
In addition to the seafood and the sweets, Trata stands out for its exceptional list of Greek wines.
Trata Estiatorio also has a branch in Water Mill. The Water Mill eatery is at 1020 Montauk Hwy.; 631-726-6200. Trata Estiatorio in Roslyn is at 1446 Old Northern Blvd.; 516-625-2600.