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Salvatore’s in Port Washington: Beyond pizza

At Salvatore's in Port Washington, the meatball Parmigiana

At Salvatore's in Port Washington, the meatball Parmigiana roll is an alternative to the fine coal-fired pizza. (Aug. 14, 2012) Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

Contemplating the menu last night at Salvatore’s in Port Washington, I thought about how I’d never ordered any of the pastas — and how I probably never would. How could I forgo the pizza, among Long Island’s best coal-oven specimens? But there were three of us, so in addition to a large sausage pie, we ordered a meatball Parmigiana roll, which is pizza dough wrapped around meatballs, mozzarella and tomato sauce, baked in the oven and then served with more tomato sauce.

The roll allowed me to appreciate the supernal elements of Salvatore’s pie — dough, cheese, sauce — in a different configuration, and I did come away with a better appreciation of the clean, bright tomato sauce. But meatballs, no matter how good, will never give Salvatore’s sausage a fair fight. After I finished half my portion, I started in on the pizza, and didn’t stop for a good long while.

Salvatore’s is at 124 Shore Rd., Port Washington, 516-883-8457.

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