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Sapsuckers in Huntington: Breaking the spell

The dining room at Sapsuckers Hops and Grub

The dining room at Sapsuckers Hops and Grub creates an old world charm, complete with vintage Audubon prints of birds and metal cafe chairs. (April 25, 2011) Credit: Doug Young

There’s this friend of mine with whom I have the worst restaurant luck. North Shore or South Shore, Suffolk or Nassau, Italian or Japanese — we never seem to have a good meal. Last night I took her to Sapsuckers in Huntington, and I’m happy to report that the spell — or at least the streak — is broken.

Sapsuckers Hops & Grub is what I call a going concern. Not only is it crowded (almost every table filled on a weeknight), but everyone on staff knows what they’re doing. The menu is succinct, focused, well priced. Servings are generous — amazingly so when it came to our appetizer, an adorable 5-by-5-inch stoneware casserole brimming with macaroni and cheese (four cheeses plus truffle oil) that cost $9. We barely got through half of it, and I spied another patron who had wisely ordered it as his main course.

My burger ($15) and fries could not have been improved upon. My pal had a special, a tender, savory lamb meatloaf served with a mountain of mashed potatoes.

I can’t handle a lot of beer; my friend even less. So our waitress thoughtfully split our pint of wheat beer into two stemmed glasses.

Sapsuckers Hops & Grub is at 287 Main St., Huntington, 631-683-4945.

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