A recent dinner at Satsuki in Lynbrook reminded me what great sushi is all about. Hisashi Manabe, who has been behind the sushi bar of his simple little Japanese restaurant the past 24 years, once again proved himself a master.
There were his amazingly light and pristinely fresh maki rolls. The signature “Koko special” roll ($4.75) — cooked shrimp and cucumber with spicy mayonnaise — seemed, as it had in the past, to be bound together by air. The rice was slightly warm, its texture neither firm nor soft but, rather, tender. A spicy tuna roll ($4.75) featured a well-cut chunk of fish and a little chili mayonnaise. How much better this was than the chopped stuff so many restaurants serve.
It was the chirashi ($19) that really set this restaurant apart. In the little lacquer box were tuna, fluke, yellowtail, sweet shrimp, eel and octopus, every element impeccable and marine-sweet. An airy slab of tamago, or omelet, also sat atop the bed of seasoned vinegared rice I found myself powerless to stop eating.
Satsuki is at 47 Atlantic Ave., Lynbrook, 516-599-1713.