I was overcome with a yen for cold sesame noodles and, in the dim recesses of my brain, I recalled having a good experience at one of the incarnations of the Chinese restaurant that sits at 6600 Jericho Tpke. in Syosset. Was it way back when it was Empire Szechuan Gourmet? Or was it at one of ESG’s successors: Tao, Dao or Ao? Since May the restaurant has been rechristened Din Din, and that’s where I went.
The noodles were good and relatively lean, relying largely on soy sauce for their flavor — which I like better than those renditions that seem little more than spaghetti in thinned-out peanut butter. In addition to the traditional chopped scallions and sliced cucumber, they were topped with some chopped preserved vegetable (pickled mustard plant) which added a nice, sour note.
Sesame noodles are usually a starter, but I ordered a starter before them: spicy cabbage salad, which was delivered to me within a minute of my request. It was a terrific, refreshing dish of sweet-sour white cabbage, pickled but still crunchy, and sprinkled judiciously with hot red pepper flakes.
This very satisfying dinner cost about $10.
Din Din is at 6600 Jericho Tpke., Syosset, 516-931-3663.