For the last meal of my recent North Fork vacation, I had breakfast at Six Three One in Southold. This month-old restaurant opened in the freestanding building, across from Port of Egypt marina, that has housed JD Steakhouse, Cimino's Ristorante, Big Mama's Creole Kitchen and the Sea Shell.
The new owners did a lovely renovation: The dining room is elegantly rustic and very airy, especially on a sunny, warm day when the glass doors alongside the front of the restaurant are fully opened to reveal Southold Bay, just across the road.
Those owners are the Dellaportas, also proprietors of the Belaire Diner in Astoria, and they have brought to the North Fork the diner tradition of serving breakfast all day long. Looking at the menu, however, I experienced a bit of a shock. After a full week of local-sustainable orthodoxy, I was expecting to learn which hens had laid the eggs and the name of the pig whose belly got cured for the bacon. In fact, I have no idea where my bacon and eggs came from, but the former was abundant and the latter perfectly over easy.
Instead of toast and home fries, I opted for the grits and these, I am sorry to say, disappointed: undercooked and undersalted. Well, what did I expect? This wasn't the South — or even the South Fork.
Omelets at a neighboring table looked good.
Lunch selections at Six Three One include a half-pound burger ($8), a cheesesteak ($16) and a panko chicken Parmigiana sandwich ($9); at dinner: pastitsio ($14), calamari fra diavolo ($19) and roasted half chicken ($17).
Six Three One is at 62375 Main Rd., Southold, 631-876-1079.