Last month, Four Food Studio lost its executive chef, Ben Durham. We stopped by for lunch Wednesday to see how his successor (and former sous chef) Antonio Guillen is faring.
Four's lunch and dinner menus change with the seasons, but other than that summer has given way to fall, I could discern nothing new in chef Guillen's approach. My friend and I both had dishes we'd enjoyed in the past and enjoyed them again, with some minor quibbles. My stir-fry of chicken and vegetables over rice ($15) was tasty but undone by way too much sauce. (Really, there should be no sauce on the rice; every Chinese restaurant knows this.) My friend had the caramel chicken lettuce wraps ($13), a do-it-yourself number involving crisp romaine leaves, sprigs of fresh mint and basil, red onion, hoisin and sriracha sauces and a big bowl of diced chicken in a sweet (and too salty) sauce.
The restaurant has launched a new “Four Your Health” lunch special — a two-course, $15 meal that has no more than 350 calories. We were curious and ordered it as an appetizer. Today's starter was a skewer of grilled chicken and pineapple (two pieces each), and the main was a 4-ounce baked striped bass filet with steamed vegetables and balsamic glaze. I wish the fish had gotten a better sear and more seasoning, but overall I was impressed with the quality, quantity and value of this meal.
The biggest change at Four is decor. Gone are the bright orange banquettes that broke the main dining room into two areas; it’s all white tables now. It was explained to us that the new configuration is more flexible and accommodating for large parties, but I find the room less inviting.
Service, as always at Four, was fast and friendly.
Four Food Studio is at 515 Broadhollow Rd. Melville, 631-577-4444, fourfoodstudio.com.