Just had lunch at the hours-old Smashburger in Hicksville, the first branch of a Denver-based fast-casual chain to open on Long Island. Overall, the place made a positive first impression, from the ultra-friendly can-do staff to the food.
After ordering at the counter, I was given a number and found a table in the attractive industrial-contemporary dining room. A short while later, the food was brought to me. I'd opted for a classic burger ($4.99), topped with American cheese, lettuce, tomato, ketchup, onion and “smash sauce” on an egg bun.
The patty, while only available medium or very well-done, was loose-textured and flavorsome; it had been smashed and seasoned while on the grill. Smashfries ($1.99), however, tossed with rosemary and garlic, were cold before they arrived. That’s the problem with shoestring potatoes. A chocolate malted ($3.99), made with Haagen-Dazs ice cream, lacked chocolate intensity. That, as I learned, was because it had been made with vanilla ice cream to which chocolate syrup had been added.
Also sampled: The commendable spicy Baja black-bean burger ($5.99), the patty tasting of little more than well-seasoned black beans, topped with pepper Jack, guacamole, lettuce, tomato, onion, spicy chipotle mayo and fresh jalapeños and served on a spicy chipotle bun. Also, a grilled chicken avocado club sandwich ($6.99) featuring moist poultry, bacon, lettuce, tomato and a bit too much ranch dressing on a multigrain bun. A Mediterranean salad ($5.99) with avocado, feta and tzatziki sauce was bright and fresh.
If you’re searching for the place, keep in mind that although it is listed as being on West Old Country Road, it actually fronts Route 106. Find it in the same strip mall as Starbucks.
Smashburger is at 180 W. Old Country Rd., Hicksville; 516-605-2235.