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Soigne, stylish and handsome, is a little jewel box. The restaurant has a French accent and offers Gallic and continental and new American fare with equal skill. Service has been consistently first-rate over the years, as has the food. And the fixed-price lunch and dinner are bargains.

Midday, try the risotto primavera finished with a balsamic reduction, wild salmon with horseradish-mashed potatoes, or the roasted vegetable quesadilla with duck confit. Loin of pork with Lyonnaise potatoes, pistachio-and-herb dusted St. Peter's fish, Gorgonzola-crusted filet mognon, roast duckling with Grand Marnier-raspberry sauce, and the pan-roasted rack of lamb are among the winners.

For dessert, consider the "bananas Foster dome," deep-dish creme brulee, creme caramel, and molten-center chocolate cake.