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Spuntino in St. James: First bites

A Margherita pizzette is served at the new

A Margherita pizzette is served at the new Spuntino in St. James in January 2015. Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick

A long-vacant building on North Country Road in St. James lives again. The peak-roofed spot with pretty arched windows is now occupied by Spuntino (no relation to the Italian tapas/wine bar in Westbury), the offshoot of an established Dix Hills restaurant.

Signs, at an early visit, were generally positive. To start, a Margherita pizzette ($9.50), or personal pizza, had a crust at once thin and puffy, with a vibrant, tomato-fresh mozzarella-basil topping. Needing some TLC, though, was shrimp scampi linguine ($16.25) featuring plump shellfish and julienne zucchini in a subtly garlicky sauce. A sprinkling of bread crumbs was a nice touch. The problem? Overcooked pasta. But chicken Parmigiana ($18) was nicely turned out —  generously portioned, as well.

Spuntino is at 420 N. Country Rd., St. James, 631-686-6700.

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