A long-vacant building on North Country Road in St. James lives again. The peak-roofed spot with pretty arched windows is now occupied by Spuntino (no relation to the Italian tapas/wine bar in Westbury), the offshoot of an established Dix Hills restaurant.
Signs, at an early visit, were generally positive. To start, a Margherita pizzette ($9.50), or personal pizza, had a crust at once thin and puffy, with a vibrant, tomato-fresh mozzarella-basil topping. Needing some TLC, though, was shrimp scampi linguine ($16.25) featuring plump shellfish and julienne zucchini in a subtly garlicky sauce. A sprinkling of bread crumbs was a nice touch. The problem? Overcooked pasta. But chicken Parmigiana ($18) was nicely turned out — generously portioned, as well.
Spuntino is at 420 N. Country Rd., St. James, 631-686-6700.