A midday visit to Spuntino Wine Bar and Italian Tapas, the Long Island offshoot of a Clifton, New Jersey, restaurant, turned out to be an experience filled with promise.
The industrial-looking spot is spacious and handsome, with surfaces of wood, brick and metal. From the menu of mostly small plates, a seared tuna bruschetta turned out to be a firecracker featuring rare fish topped with a zingy combo of arugula, chili peppers, olive tapenade and lemon zest. A small Margherita pizza, though, was a bit soft of crust, its tomato sauce a bit watery. Much better: a bowl of light, meltingly good ricotta gnocchi with a ragout of braised wild boar.
Service, while a bit slow, was friendly.
No question, the restaurant’s location, in the Gallery at Westbury, will draw the shopping set.
Spuntino Wine Bar and Italian Tapas is at The Gallery at Westbury, 1002 Old Country Rd., Garden City, 516-228-5400, spuntinowinebar.com.