Squiretown is situated in Contrahampton, where all is amiable and attentive, with reliable food and absolutely no pretense.
Divided between dining room and bar and recommended for both, the breezy little place heads the choices in Hampton Bays and merits a visit from points west or east. About 50 fill the tables, another 16 the bar, all having a good time. The establishment is shaded in warm-weather hues. But Squiretown has the easygoing style of a year-rounder, an establishment that's part of the neighborhood.
And, courtesy of a creative kitchen, the main course here is surprise.
Consider the artfully fashioned beet box. The flavorful, edible sculpture of roasted beets comes with parsnip and celery-root purees plus crumbled blue cheese. Pickled onions play off the union of ripe tomatoes and burrata, the creamy mozzarella two-step. Asparagus soup sports either crabmeat or lobster. Generous, meaty crabcakes are accented with Old Bay-spiked mayonnaise. Pomegranate cream spurs the scallop crudo. And the shellfish cocktails vie with Peconic Pride oysters from the raw bar. Braised pork belly, lush and tender, arrives atop a foil of shaved apple. Chef Charles Bishop's top entrees: the moist, delicious, perfectly crosshatched cut of swordfish, with snap peas; and light, flavorful sauteed fluke in a lively lemon-beurre blanc. His juicy, pan-roasted chicken shows up on sauteed greens and creamy polenta.
And vegetarians have an ally at Squiretown. The vegetable plate contains tasty preparations, not just a collection of side dishes. Midday, enjoy the lobster roll and the turkey club, the jerk pork and the bacon-cheeseburger. The obligatory dessert is called Elvis Woulda -- chocolate cake with peanut-butter cream, banana-caramel sauce and marshmallow fluff. Maybe he did. The competition is from cheesecake and a chocolate-amaretto tart.
Chewy duck breast; dull clam fritters; routine steamed mussels; a heavyweight appetizer of prime-rib popover, with roast beef, onions and horseradish cream.
THE BOTTOM LINE