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Stella Blue in Huntington: First bites

Pulled pork with jalapeno cornbread and coleslaw at

Pulled pork with jalapeno cornbread and coleslaw at Stella Blue in Huntington in October 2014. Photo Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick

A larger-than-life mural of the late Jerry Garcia graces an outside brick wall of the new Stella Blue, a quirky eatery with a Woodstock vibe. Stay there longer than half an hour, and you should hear some Grateful Dead numbers being played in the background musical mix. The decor, a blend of '60s-era art and antiques, is kind of hodgepodge-lodge. Order at the counter and find some seating but be forewarned that you may need to keep your jacket on. Cold air rushes in anytime the door opens.

I had been excited to see a handwritten sign outside that read “smoked chicken.” When I ordered it, though, I was told the only chicken they had at the moment was fried. But, added the woman behind the counter, there was some pulled pork smoked just that day. So I ordered a platter ($12.99). As it turned out, this wasn’t just good pulled pork, it was excellent — deeply smoky shards with caramelized ends. Accompanying jalapeño cornbread, while good, was a bit overbaked; coleslaw was light and fresh. Not in the same league was my companion’s veggie burger ($8.99), which was pretty dull, none the better for its hummus topping.

The place has a doughnut-making machine with a little conveyor belt that spits out and then fries miniature rings of dough. (6 for $3.99; 12 for $6.99) Greasy, yes. But, oh, so good.

Stella Blue is at 188 New York Ave., Huntington, 631-425-2583.

 

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