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Strip mall stars

Singha Thai owner Rui Zhen "Jenny" Jiang delivers

Singha Thai owner Rui Zhen "Jenny" Jiang delivers an order of drunken noodles. (Sept. 8, 2011) Credit: Newsday/Thomas A. Ferrara

Long Island's strip malls may be nondescript in appearance, but they can harbor some exciting culinary surprises. Here are three favorites:

WEST EAST BISTRO
758 Broadway (Route 107), Hicksville
516-939-6618, westeastbistro.com

Restaurateur Danny Wu has made a nearly deserted strip into a dining destination. Standouts from the Asian-New American menu include pork osso buco, stir-fried chicken with ginger and pan-seared Long Island duck breast. Fixed-price options and warm service are pluses.

TATE'S RESTAURANT
292 Smithtown Blvd., Nesconset
631-676-3283, tatesrestaurant.com

In a little Nesconset strip mall, Jack Mutell gets creative with a changing roster of New American and Italian dishes, such as grouper fra diavolo and Barolo-braised short ribs. Order prix-fixe or go a la carte.

SINGHA THAI
74
Farmingdale Rd. (Route 109), West Babylon
631-669-8200

Modest in appearance only, this bare-bones Thai spot is bold with flavor. Find major gratification in the chicken- coconut soup, drunken noodles and grilled salmon with Thai spices, among other items.

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