"The summer wind came blowin' in / From across the sea / It lingered there to touch your hair / And walk with me."
Yes, it's that time of year, when romance takes over and lasts a little longer.
Whether it's with Sinatra singing, waves rippling, or the sun setting, Long Island is dotted with restaurants where the spirit of the season comes in. And any duet can turn, as Heinz Meier and Johnny Mercer immortalized, into "two sweethearts and the summer wind."
Here are some destinations where romance is more than a side dish.
Selections by Newsday's food staff.
Scarpetta Beach, Montauk: Situated in the oceanfront Gurney's Montauk Resort & Seawater Spa, Scarpetta Beach provides a great view, a getaway, lodging, Italian cuisine -- the full package for lovers and others. Choices include fritto misto, seared scallops, asparagus soup, tagliatelle with lobster and asparagus, duck foie gras ravioli with a Marsala wine reduction, spaghetti with tomato and basil, black cod with caramelized fennel and concentrated tomatoes and dry-aged rib-eye steak with a seasonal vegetable fricassee.
Tagliatelle with lobster is served at Scarpetta Beach in Montauk.
Aria Melanie, Bay Shore: Named for owner Frank Mandato's granddaughters, Aria Melanie serves Mediterranean fare from chef Fabrizio Perinelli and offers intimate tables with this view on the porch and the deck.
House-made saffron pappardelle with sausage ragu and pecorino is on the menu at Aria Melanie in Bay Shore.
The Lake House
The Lake House, Bay Shore: Remember the last time you were excited to go out to dinner? The Lake House in Bay Shore is that kind of restaurant, and has been for a decade. Originally situated in a modest, 65-seat eatery in what had been the Duck Pond Inn on tiny Lawrence Lake, the spot has now moved into a grand 200-seat restaurant overlooking the Great South Bay. The new Lake House has multiple dining areas, an informal tap room bar, a deck and a firepit -- all of them rendered with understated elegance. Menu bests include the lobster roll, suckling pig, grilled octopus, caramelized local sea scallops and pistachio baked Alaska.
With butter, no mayo, this lobster roll is the best of the bar menu at The Lake House in Bay Shore.
Navy Beach, Montauk: The water view is unobstructed as you dine at a table on the beach here. Enough said. The cooking is New American; the results, very good. Some favorites: Peruvian-style mixed seafood ceviche, crisp rock shrimp with spicy mayonnaise, buttermilk fried chicken, dry-aged strip steak with chimichurri and spicy-sweet Yunnan ribs with chile and caramel. There are also plenty of creative, colorful, flavor-packed house cocktails.
Crab cake is a tasty course at Montauk's Navy Beach.
View, Oakdale: The view in question at this bright, summery restaurant is of the glistening Great South Bay. It could easily inspire a tender moment. Recommended on the menu: the raw bar, especially the seafood plateau; yellowfin tuna tartare; Beijing duck tacos; Korean-style barbecued beef steamed buns; steamed lobster; seared jumbo shrimp; tortilla-crusted Montauk fluke with tomato salsa, avocado puree, and chipotle creme fraiche; miso-glazed salmon; and rib-eye steak with black-truffle macaroni and cheese.
Miso-glazed salmon is served at View in Oakdale.
La Plage, Wading River: Across from the beach, this country charmer offers fine New American fare and a genuine sense of getting away from the madding crowd. Dishes include black truffle ravioli with short-rib ragu, pappardelle with seafood and chorizo and spicy tomato sauce, roasted bay scallops, pan-roasted fluke, butter-poached lobster with mascarpone-infused orzo, duck and confit of duck leg with chive risotto and grilled hanger steak.
Strawberry-rhubarb bread pudding, topped with buttermilk ice cream, is a seasonal treat at La Plage restaurant in Wading River.
East Hampton Point
East Hampton Point, East Hampton: One of the prettiest perches on the East End, East Hampton Point is on Three Mile Harbor. The sunsets are seductive. Airy and bright, it distills summertime. The cuisine matches the setting with dishes that include the raw bar, fluke crudo with Meyer lemon and cilantro, spicy shrimp bisque, steamed lobster, jumbo lump crabcake with black-bean-and-corn salsa, halibut with brown butter and lemon sauce, and sirloin steak with roasted cipollini onions, sunchokes and baby kale.
Balsam Farm chilled corn soup with diver scallop ceviche is an artful choice at East Hampton Point restaurant in East Hampton.
Maliblue Oyster Bar
Maliblue Oyster Bar, Lido Beach: Summer lives at this breezy restaurant and oyster bar within the Malibu Shore Club that's open to the public for both lunch and dinner. You and your sweetheart can share a raw bar seafood tower within view of the pool; the ocean isn't far away. Also on the menu: lobster tacos, steamed lobster, skirt steak and blackened shrimp. (Note that after 4 p.m., parking is free. Otherwise, if you spend $50 or more between noon and 4 p.m., you get a $10 parking discount.)
MaliBlue Oyster Bar's lobster tacos are ideal for two to share during a romantic dinner on the outdoor patio.
Wall's Wharf, Bayville: The two of you can be one with the beach at this idyllic Bayville spot. Sip drinks on the cocktail deck overlooking the Long Island Sound. If you get lucky, perhaps you can snag a table in the sand. Recommended from the new sushi bar: Chef Yong Lee's hamachi carpaccio, yellowtail jalapeno roll and sashimi platters. Executive chef Dale Michishima also offers such dishes as oysters and clams on the half shell, lobster rolls, sesame-crusted ahi tuna and linguine with white clam sauce.
The lobster special at Wall's Wharf in Bayville is served with corn on the cob, rice pilaf and a julienne of vegetables.