Sushi Village is the new Hicksville branch of a Japanese restaurant that has locations in Westwood, N.J. and Bayside. It takes over the former digs of the Beverly Diner.
I can say, following a recent lunch, that it's a welcome change. The restaurant offers an all-you-can eat option ($19.99 Monday to Thursday, $21.99 Friday to Sunday). This is how it works: you check off exactly what you want from a list of sushi, sashimi, maki rolls, appetizers, salads, soups, noodle dishes, tempuras and teryakis. You can always order more. No doggie bags.
There’s also an a la carte menu as well as a roster of lunch specials. From that, I ordered a sushi lunch ($9), which included miso soup, the ubiquitous overdressed green salad and a platter with five ovals of finfish over rice. While the menu lists a California roll as part of the deal, I was able to substitute a salmon and avocado roll for an extra dollar. The fish was super-fresh, delicate and well-cut, the rice at proper room temperature.
Sushi Village is at 290 W. Old Country Rd., Hicksville, 516-513-1790.