June is a siren. It hints of summer and beckons you to country-style restaurants, flavorful dishes and a degree of lightness. Here are three eateries that suit the month.
Swallow in Huntington specializes in small plates to share. Its alfresco feeling contributes to the appeal. Recommended: charred beets with ricotta, arugula, almonds, and horseradish; roasted baby carrots; asparagus fries; broiled oysters; grillled octopus with preserved lemon vinaigrette; shrimp and grits; shredded chicken tostada. Moderate to expensive.
Swallow, 366 New York Ave., Huntington, 631-547-5388, swallowrestaurant.com
Pier 95 in Freeport serves a water view along with savory dishes, some with Portuguese accents. Recommended: codfish cakes; steamed clams; crabcakes with mustard mayo; shrimp with roasted garlic puree; seared sea scallops with sauce Choron; roasted swordfish with lemon-ginger sauce; bacon-wrapped monkfish medallions; pork tenderloin and clams; New England-style clam chowder. Moderate to expensive.
Pier 95, 95 Hudson Ave., Freeport, 516-379-9898. pier95.com
little/red in Southampton delivers French, Italian and New American fare with equal flair. Recommended: frisee aux lardons; tuna tartare; steamed duck buns; veal Milanese; chorizo-and-shrimp quesadillas; pulled-pork sliders; butterscotch pot de crème; cheesecake with fresh blueberry sauce. Moderate to expensive.
little/red, 76-C Jobs Lane, Southampton, 631-283-3309, littleredsouthampton.com