At first glance, it looks like your average slice joint, but as you approach the counter you see that Taglio’s pies are rectangular, the slices are square. Welcome to Roman-style pizza, where the pies are baked in a large sheet pans and cut with scissors into slices. “Taglio” is Italian for “slice.”
Taglio opened two weeks ago in that block of Mineola Boulevard just under the elevated roadway that goes over the LIRR tracks. Owner Rob Cervoni was inspired by the cult Roman pizzeria, Bonci, to create a high-hydration (i.e. wet) pizza dough that gets a long, slow rise. The resultant crust is full-flavored, light and full of air bubbles.
Most of the toppings at Taglio will be familiar to Long Islanders — from simple cheese and tomato sauce to Buffalo chicken (topped with blue-cheese dressing and celery slices), chicken-bacon-ranch and Philly special (with steak, peppers, onions, mozzarella and cheese sauce). But there are also some combinations that call to mind the sophisticated pizza stylings of Bonci and other high-end Roman pizzerias: mortadella and artichokes, prosciutto and arugula.
Slices at Taglio range from $2.50 to $4.50, pies from $18 to $25. There are also salads ($9 to $12) and panini made on homemade focaccia ($9).
Taglio is at 85 Mineola Blvd., Mineola, 516-741-0379.