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Tappo in Glen Cove: First bites

Polenta with quail ragu at Tappo restaurant in

Polenta with quail ragu at Tappo restaurant in Glen Cove. Newsday/Peter M. Gianotti (January, 2012) Credit: None/

Just what Glen Cove needs: another Italian restaurant.

Well, yes.

Tappo moves into the address recently occupied by Epiphany. It's more streamlined, more contemporary, but rooted in regional Italian cooking. And early on, it's very good.

Try the soothing opener of polenta with a ragout of quail; or the house's version of carciofini alla Giudea, the Roman specialty of fried artichokes. Move on to a pasta, especially the saccottini ripieni, little pouches filled with a four-cheese combo and finished with tomatoes and basil. Sample the chicken with peppers and mushrooms. Conclude with a fresh, light cheesecake.

Appetizers and salads, $8 to $10; pastas, $14 to $22; main courses, $17 to $30.

You'll depart satisfied and in a fine mood.

Tappo, 284 Glen St., Glen Cove; 516-759-1913.

Polenta with quail ragout at Tappo.

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