Thai cuisine is complex and varied, endlessly appealing. Each of the following dishes offers a case in point.
The cleverly nuanced jumbo shrimp mango curry at Raan Thai. Raan Thai, 203 Terry Rd., Smithtown, 631-656-5887, raanthaicuisine.com
The delectable "drunken" noodles with spicy basil sauce mellowed by egg at Bonbori. Bonbori, 14 Elm St., Huntington, 631-673-0400
The ku-chai -- steamed rice cakes stuffed with bright Chinese chives -- at Centara Thai Cuisine. Centara Thai Cuisine, 1015 Rte. 25A, Stony Brook, 631-689-2135
The Asian version of a tamale: sticky rice with chicken and vegetables wrapped in a banana leaf, served at Singha Thai. Singha Thai, 74 Farmingdale Rd. (Rte. 109), West Babylon, 631-669-8200
The fragrant, addictive eggplant with basil at Frankly Thai. Frankly Thai, 959 Hempstead Tpke., Franklin Square, 516-616-4393, franklythai.com
The complex and savory chicken massamum curry at Thai Station. Thai Station, 2161 Merrick Ave., Merrick, 516-868-1168
The showstopping larb at SriPraPhai, an explosive blend of ground pork, mint, chili and lime. SriPraPhai, 280 Hillside Ave., Williston Park, 516-280-3779, sripraphairestaurant.com