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Ramen shop Teinei Ya opens in Great Neck

Classic tonkotsu ramen is one of the specialties

Classic tonkotsu ramen is one of the specialties at Teinei Ya ramen shop in Great Neck.. Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

A year ago, Great Neck was a ramen-free zone. Now, with the opening of Teinei Ya, it has three purveyors of the Japanese noodle soup.

Ippon (which opened in August) serves a wide variety of Japanese dishes, and Ren Wen (this March) uses ramen as a jumping-off point for a range of inventive international noodle dishes. But Teinei Ya, an offshoot of a Queens restaurant that opened in May 2014, is a straight-ahead, classic ramen shop whose menu does not stray far from its eight noodle bowls, plus a handful of starters and sides.

The menu helpfully rates each ramen bowl on a five-point richness scale. With its creamy pork-and-chicken broth, Yokohama-style ramen scores a four out of five. Tonkotsu ramen, made with a clear-ish pork broth, scores a two and a half. Vegetarian “tempula” ramen trails at one. There is also spicy ramen, dan dan sesame ramen, and ramen with edamame falafel, as well as tomato-beef stew and Chinese zha jiang, nude noodles topped with a sauce of minced pork and fermented soybean paste. Prices range from $11 to $13.

It’s a chic little shop, with elegant wooden chairs, oversized wicker light fixtures and tables helpfully set with both laquered chopsticks and forks, plus toothpicks. The kitchen is open and, instead of a table, you can pull up a stool and watch the show while you eat.

No liquor for now (a beer and wine license is in the works) but there is a good selection of imported Japanese soft drinks.

Teinei Ya is at 5 S. Middle Neck Rd., Great Neck Plaza, 516-472-0672.