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67° Good Afternoon
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Test: Highway Diner, East Hampton: First bites

 

As diners go, East Hampton’s Highway Diner & Bar is about as beachy-chic as they come. Lots of white and blue and pale polished wood floors — in short, the colors of sand and sea. Even so, this is a true diner, serving up breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. If it's 8 p.m. and you've got a yen for pancakes, you can get them here.

It was midday when I stopped in with the burning question: Can the kitchen turn out a decent burger? The answer is yes, and then some. The Highway burger ($12), topped with caramelized onion and American cheese, was grilled a perfect medium-rare, charred and crusty on the outside, oozy within. A soft sesame bun neither overwhelmed the burger nor was overwhelmed by it. Accompanying hand-cut fries were toasty, addictive. Another deftly done diner classic was a BLT featuring thick bacon, bright tomatoes and romaine on toasted sourdough white ($9).

Also on chef Robert Gurvich’s menu: brioche French toast ($9), crabcakes ($14) and wild mushroom ravioli ($19).

Right now, place is open until 9 p.m. on weekdays, 10 p.m. on weekends, but hours will be extended as the summer heats up. A late-night bar menu should go into effect soon.

Highway Diner & Bar is at 290 Montauk Hwy., East Hampton, 631-324-0130.

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