In the twilight of summer, enjoy a long sunset at The Boathouse.
This New American eatery, at the renovated, ex-site of Bostwick's, delivers a calming, waterside view that balances the energetic socializing when the eatery turns nightspot.
The Boathouse is the latest entry by Michael Gluckman, whose other East Hamptonians have included Bamboo Sushi Lounge and the departed Lodge Bar & Grill. The Harbor Marina dining room is bright and open to the breezes, a second-story entertainment in off-white and cream that's equal parts restaurant and show.
Bring your shades.
Stay with the less-complicated dishes, which suit the ambience and the appetite. The Boathouse sends out platters of chilled shellfish, from raw clams and oysters to lobster and shrimp. Solo, the shrimp cocktail is a fine starter, competing with tuna tartare in a sesame-soy dressing with mango and avocado; and fluke sashimi sparked with lime juice, chile paste and cilantro. There's a respectable bistro salad, with greens, roasted beets, Bosc pear, candied pecans and nuggets of Danish blue cheese. Blue Point Beer Lager fish-and-chips crisply benefits from that batter, and a pint on draft. Pasta with white clam sauce satisfies, its ribbons more like fettuccine than linguine. You'll find a thick and tender filet mignon, au poivre or not; and beefy tuna, sesame-ginger crusted variety, with wasabi-spiked mashed potatoes and bok choy. Macaroni-and-cheese and sweet corn are the mandatory sides. The leading dessert, of course, is a banana split, followed by a chocolate-chip cookie ice-cream sandwich. Formalists can sample the creamy lemon cheesecake.
Standard-issue fried calamari, boosted a bit by the chipotle mayo; panko-crusted crab cake that's on the dry side; candy-sweet miso cod; generous but overcooked roasted pork chop, cherry peppers on the side. The fresh strawberry shortcake turns soggy; thin wedges of Key lime pie, more acidic than tart.
THE BOTTOM LINE
A room with a view.