FOOD 1 1/2 stars
1228 Middle Country Rd., Selden
At this Selden spot serving multiple Asian cuisines, top picks include "drums of heaven," chicken wings fried with herbs, garlic and chili sauce, as well as the "chilly" chicken, boneless chunks in a resonant chili-fired sauce.
FOOD 2 stars
16 W. Marie St., Hicksville
At this comfortable Indian-Chinese restaurant, you'll want to try the chicken "lollipops" in a fiery brown sauce. Noodles with vegetables go well with just about everything on the menu.
FOOD 3 stars
106 Woodbury Rd., Hicksville
The kitchen here will adjust the heat of your food to your palate while doing justice to a variety of Asian cuisines. Standing out among the choices are the incendiary chili-garlic noodles, a dish that offers comfort while making you reach for your water glass.