The noise you hear is coming from The Metropolitan Bistro. The energized, informal eatery took over the spot vacated by Tupelo Honey, and the fun has just begun.
This spirited place is an offspring of The Metropolitan, the handsome catering facility in Glen Cove. Executive chef James Lotker's inviting menu is a one-sheet affair, New American with some Mediterranean accents. You'll immediately want to order everything.
But you can't. If you're unable to resist picking a dish before placing your full order, your weekend waitress may veto the spontaneous request. Weekdays, service is more accommodating. One weekend, food arrived at a pace to break speed limits. On a weekday, timing was ideal. Maybe they'll figure it out soon.
Meantime, look around. You'll spot only a section of the whimsical, undulating tile work that sweetened the look of Tupelo Honey. The beehive-dome oven remains, tile-free but definitely working.
Accordingly, select a white pizza. The pizza offerings change daily, but the ricotta-starring, wood-burning beauty deserves permanent status. Pair it with the cedar-planked, roasted vegetables, a smoky platter that comes with a little bucket of mayo. Or with the platter of baba ghanoush, hummus, tomato salad and grilled pita triangles. Long Island fish chowder, white as winter, should comfortably fortify you for any snowstorm. Go casual with a fine cheeseburger capped with grilled red onion and manchego; or formal, with the juicy strip steak under a shower of crisp ribbons of parsnip. The tender, wood-roasted pork chop glistening from a cider reduction and on caramelized apples is a natural. Leading the seafood: pan-seared Chatham cod finished in a lemongrass-infused beurre blanc; and a special of snowy black bass with corn succotash. Bourbon-pecan pie fits in.
Nearly blackened crispy shrimp cocktail. Overdone crepe with cubed root vegetables, shredded short rib and Stilton. Bland lentil and tabbouleh salads; underseasoned pappardelle with grilled eggplant; routine apple crisp and lemon tart.