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The Pie Shoppe opens in Hicksville

Apple pie at The Pie Shoppe in Hicksville

Apple pie at The Pie Shoppe in Hicksville has a shortbread crust, Sept. 13, 2016. Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus

For owner Spiro Kitovas, The Pie Shoppe was more than a year in the making — and more than 25 years in the dreaming. The construction executive had always dreamed of opening a bakery, and on Sept. 9 it came true.

He was buying some bakery equipment when Kitovas met Robert Ellinger, the much-decorated pastry chef whose bakery, Baked to Perfection, graced Port Washington from 1986 to 2015. Kitovas was looking for some expertise and Ellinger was open to consulting.

Always a confectionery innovator, Ellinger pushed the envelope with The Pie Shoppe’s eponymous treat. Apple and blueberry pies (small, $7.95; large $19.95) are baked in individual paper bags to keep fillings moist; when the filling is fully cooked, a big hole is cut into the paper to allow the top crust to brown. Open-faced pies include key lime, chocolate ganache and banana cream (individual, $5.95; large $19.95). Big, flat “pizza pies” ($19.95) include Linzer torte, chocolate chip and “Chef Bobby D’s buttercake pie,” a rich cross between cake, cookie and pie.

On the savory front, breakfast “hand pies” ($4.50) are made with eggs and various combinations of cheese, sausage and bacon. They are coated, porcupine style, with crispy potato hash browns. Later in the day, the potpies (small, $7.95) emerge from the oven. Among the six savory pot pies are sausage-and-pepper, bourbon chicken and Sicilian caponata.

Take out or eat in. The retro-chic shop has a modern coffee bar with a full range of espresso drinks, free Wi-Fi and seating for about 25 people.

The Pie Shoppe is at 7 W. Village Green, Hicksville, 516-719-4141.

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