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The Riverhead Project, with new chef Lia Fallon, is one of Long Island's best restaurants

theRIVERHEADPROJECT, in a building that once housed a

theRIVERHEADPROJECT, in a building that once housed a Chase Manhattan Bank branch, has a full bar with lounge seating as well as outdoor dining. (June 15, 2011) Credit: Randee Daddona

theRIVERHEADPROJECT is the best restaurant in town, under new chef Lia Fallon.

Fallon, who joined the Riverhead spot after a star turn at the Jedediah Hawkins Inn in Jamesport, prepares terrific New American dishes in the converted, low-slung, "Mad Men"-era bank building.

Her fare balances the streamlined and sharp with the homey and inviting. Try the crisp and sweet shrimp-and-crab fritters; the snappy kale salad with a smoked paprika vinaigrette; or just snack on fried olives, addictive with lemon aioli.

Then sample the fried chicken, with pineapple-cabbage slaw, grilled avocado and a sweet tangerine reduction. Or enjoy her take on bibimbap, the Korean staple here with vegetables, chile-garlic sauce and a fried egg.

This restaurant is a treat.

theRIVERHEADPROJECT, 300 E. Main St., Riverhead; 631-284-9300.

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