theRIVERHEADPROJECT is the best restaurant in town, under new chef Lia Fallon.
Fallon, who joined the Riverhead spot after a star turn at the Jedediah Hawkins Inn in Jamesport, prepares terrific New American dishes in the converted, low-slung, "Mad Men"-era bank building.
Her fare balances the streamlined and sharp with the homey and inviting. Try the crisp and sweet shrimp-and-crab fritters; the snappy kale salad with a smoked paprika vinaigrette; or just snack on fried olives, addictive with lemon aioli.
Then sample the fried chicken, with pineapple-cabbage slaw, grilled avocado and a sweet tangerine reduction. Or enjoy her take on bibimbap, the Korean staple here with vegetables, chile-garlic sauce and a fried egg.
This restaurant is a treat.
theRIVERHEADPROJECT, 300 E. Main St., Riverhead; 631-284-9300.