Toast After Hours, housed in Toast & Co.'s casual breakfast and lunch spot, becomes "a serious, chef-driven restaurant" when night falls, Joan Reminick writes in this week's Cheap Eats column. Among the best at the Huntington spot, which gets two stars, are crunchy tacos made from deep-fried flatbreads, the pici carbonara and the papparadelle with short ribs in a Chianti sauce.
Peter Gianotti awards two stars to The Metropolitan Bistro in Sea Cliff, praising its wood-oven pizzas, in particular the "ricotta-starring, wood-burning beauty" of a white pizza. Also try the burger, wood-roasted pork chop and Chatham cod finished with a lemongrass-infused beurre-blanc sauce, he writes.
Pici Carbonara is served at Toast After Hours in Huntington.