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This week’s restaurant reviews

Diners peruse their menus at Pentimento in Stony

Diners peruse their menus at Pentimento in Stony Brook Village Center, where candlelight creates a glow. (Jan. 29, 2011) Credit: John Griffin

A banner week for LI restaurants: two three-star reviews.

Peter Gianotti awards three stars to 17-year-old Pentimento, in Stony Brook, whose chef Dennis Young “has refined and enhanced the cuisine at Pentimento, turning it into a many-layered affair, with reappearances, underlying surprises, new pleasures.”

Joan Reminick has her world rocked by Roast Sandwich House, which occupies the Melville spot that once housed Dino’s Joint and, before that, Peace Street Kitchen. “Can a mere sandwich make the earth move? At Roast Sandwich House in Melville, my world gets shaken more than once.

Pentimento in Stony Brook