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This week's restaurant reviews

Toro sashimi is tasty at Nisen 347 in

Toro sashimi is tasty at Nisen 347 in St. James. Credit: John Griffin

In a strip mall in St. James, Newsday’s Joan Reminick discovers Istanbul Cafe II, with a well-priced repertoire that feels authentically Turkish. Of note: mixed grill of kebabs, chicken gyro and a hearty beef moussaka special. The offshoot of a Centereach Turkish restaurant, this branch also excels with an opulent chocolate pudding with profiteroles embedded in it.

Critic Peter M. Gianotti delves into the two new branches of Nisen, where sliders vie with sushi and the places “light the fuse in fusion.’’ The branch in St. James, Nisen 347, gets a slightly higher rating than Nisen 110 in Melville.

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