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Ting review

Ting succeeds with the cucumber-wrapped naruto roll, of

Ting succeeds with the cucumber-wrapped naruto roll, of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and avocado, finished with ponzu sauce. (Feb. 2, 2013) Credit: Johnny Simon

Some Ting definitely is happening in Huntington.

After the short stays of Dao and Legacy at this address, Ting refreshes and expands the Asian-fusion theme. It takes over with confidence, ambition and often excellent food.

Service has improved dramatically, too, and the look has been polished, turning Ting into a destination. The focal point no longer is just the fish tank full of colorful, tropical swimmers.

The dining room still is a handsome, high-ceiling affair, equal parts serene and showy. Yet, in almost every other way, it's subtler, balanced, more focused.

Yes, the miso soup is good. But the creamy, curry-driven butternut squash soup with coconut shrimp is better. There's seaweed salad. But a combo of beets, blue cheese, watercress and frisée in a balsamic vinaigrette magnifies and improves the repertoire.

Veer Thai with tasty chicken satay and shift Chinese for a satisfying spin on chicken Soong, given a Latin accent with jicama. Pork gyoza are standard; the bonito-crusted crabcake with mustard sauce, much more. And, of course, glistening miso black cod makes its now-common cameo, silkily marinating among the appetizers.

The sushi bar gets playful with buoyant versions of tuna pizza and tuna tartare. The wonton sushi tacos, however, make a grander entrance than they deserve. Purists should stick to the sashimi and traditional sushi on vinegared rice. Lush bluefin toro tops those selections, which go from "crabstick" and smoked salmon to sea urchin and king crab.

Generally, signature rolls are notice-me efforts in overdoing it. Ting uses some restraint and succeeds with the cucumber-wrapped naruto roll, of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and avocado, finished with ponzu sauce; and spring of Paris, featuring king crab, tuna and salmon in rice paper.

Ting sends out a savory, single-course Beijing duck; and a "crispy delight" combination of beef and scallops that could lose the shellfish and finish ahead. The beef is a distant reminder of the double-fried beef that devotees of Levittown's departed Hunam remember. It makes you wish Ting would contemplate hacked chicken and spicy cabbage, too.

But, that reverie aside, sample commendable beef in hot Malaysian sambal sauce, kung pao shrimp with cashews, Singapore-style curry rice noodles and, if you're inclined to go west, some fine mashed potatoes. Pureed spuds also accompany chargrilled filet mignon in a red-wine demi-glace.

Euro-sweet desserts are headed by a pistachio-swirl gelato and a professional crème brûlée -- Ting's appropriately completed with coconut and ginger.

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