Tiramisu, an Italian dessert whose name, translated, means "pick me up," is a confection hard to resist.
Here are four versions geared to picking up your spirits.
ABEETZA NEXT DOOR, 82 Glen Cove Rd., Greenvale, 516-484-3123, abeetza.com
To make his lush, light tiramisu, chef-owner Joseph DeLorenzo whips mascarpone "until it's like air," adding a minute amount of Galliano liqueur. He dips ladyfingers in espresso and tops it all with cocoa powder. To get it to set, he gives it a "quick shot" in the freezer.
PEPE ROSSO 24, 24 Manorhaven Blvd., Port Washington, 516-944-9477
Chef and co-owner Michael Tizzano offers a tiramisu that's rich and subtly boozy. He soaks ladyfingers in espresso with a little amaretto, and layers them with a whipped mixture of mascarpone, zabaglione and whipped cream.
MASCALI, 277A Larkfield Rd., East Northport, 631-757-2404
Chef-owner Jim Bancheri makes a tiramisu both light and unconscionably rich. His secret? A mascarpone mousse made with Frangelico-spiked zabaglione mixture, egg whites and whipped cream. He also dips his ladyfingers in espresso and Sambuca.
FARGIANO'S PIZZA & PASTA, 93 E. Main St., East Islip; 631-650-9595
Chef Richard Desmond aces dessert. His pumpkin tiramisu with drifts of freshly whipped cream is boozy, airy and autumnal. Also in sync with the season: an irresistible apple caramel bread pudding.