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Tony Colombos in Rockville Centre: First bites

Rice balls filled with beef ragu and peas

Rice balls filled with beef ragu and peas are an appetizer at Tony Colombos in Rockville Centre, August 2014. Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti

Tony Colombos, full of good feeling and Italian-American favorites, is the newest entry in Long Island's most-competitive cuisine.

The restaurant, on the former site of Cielo, keeps the red sauce flowing and makes some tasty additions to the familiar repertoire. You'll like it.

Try the rice balls, filled with beef ragu and sweet peas, set on tomato sauce. Sample the fennel salad, updated with a blood-orange vinaigrette. Enjoy the husky lasagna, with a sausage-driven spin on Bolognese sauce. Dig into beef braciola. Confidently order eggplant Parmigiana.

And pick Italian cheesecake for dessert.

Tony Colombos is a joint effort by chef Tony Colombo, formerly of Cirella's in Melville and Mannino's in Oakdale; and Art Gustafson, chef-owner of Chadwicks American Chop House & Bar in Rockville Centre.

Tony Colombos, 208 Sunrise Hwy., Rockville Centre; 516-678-1996.


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