Is it possible that there's a revival under way for Chinese restaurants in Nassau and Suffolk? Here are four reasons why.
RED TIGER DUMPLING HOUSE, 320 Stony Brook Rd., Stony Brook, 631-675-6899
The Shanghai-style soup dumplings are reason enough to become a regular at Red Tiger, a modest spot just off Nesconset Highway. Steamed pork buns and crab-and-pork buns are excellent. You'll find fine crystal shrimp dumplings and pork-and-vegetable pot stickers.
FORTUNE WHEEL, 3601 Hempstead Tpke., Levittown, 516-579-4700
Dependable year after year, and especially good now, busy Fortune Wheel is Long Island's go-to for dim sum. Make a meal of appetizers with savory choices such as steamed pork buns, taro cake and fried dumplings. Also try lobster with ginger and scallions, and shrimp with lobster sauce.
YAO'S DINER, 2503 Middle Country Rd., Centereach, 631-588-2218
Almost all your favorites are available at Yao's, a no-frills restaurant where the emphasis is on flavor. Winners include deep-fried crabs in hot chili oil, braised prawns, sauteed lamb with scallions, kung pao chicken, and sauteed eggplant in garlic sauce.
MOONSTONE, 14 Northern Blvd. Great Neck, 516-829-1191
Sleek and contemporary, bright and handsome, Moonstone offers up its own reliable repertoire. Order the puffy, Shanghai-style soup dumplings filled with pork, crab and delectable broth, then savor the spin on a sanpei chicken claypot, here with Chinese sausage and cloud ear mushrooms. Allow the half-hour for the kitchen to prepare the one-course Beijing duck.