Thursday I was in Bridgehampton getting a tour of Topping Rose House, the new luxury inn whose focal point (at least for me) is the 50-seat restaurant run by Tom Colicchio, of “Top Chef” and Craft Restaurants fame. The restaurant opens for dinner on Saturday evening. Read about it here. And see some stunning photographs here.
I didn’t have a chance to taste any food, but the kitchen was extremely impressive, equipped with literally hundreds of Mauviel pans (retail price of 1½ quart saucepan: $120). The dining room was lovely. Like the rest of the inn, it seamlessly blended the 150-year-old building’s Greek Revival architecture with opulent, modern accents and contemporary art.
I spoke to Colicchio about the menu, which is more vegetable-centric than any he’s done before. “It’s so great being here in the middle of all the farms,” he said. “I’ve been inspired to put produce in the forefront. Conceiving these dishes, I’ve started with the vegetables and then added the meat.”
The menu lists many of the restaurant’s East End purveyors, including Braun Seafood, Browder’s Birds, Quail Hill Farms and Catapano Goat Dairy. And some of the produce will be coming from the 1-acre vegetable plot on the premises.
“We’re going to be growing varieties that we can’t get from other places,” Colicchio said. “We’ve planted these amazing carrots that have no cores, Scarlet Nantes, and herbs like rue that you don’t see so much.”
Dishes I’m anxious to try include a summer vegetable ragout with bone marrow and poached egg ($18); braised zucchini and crispy zucchini blossoms with burratta ($19); sweet corn agnolotti $20/$28 as a main); braised onions, saffron and fennel with spice-roasted lobster ($41); peach tarte Tatin with sweet corn ice cream.
Topping Rose House is at One Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Tpke., Bridgehampton, 631-537-0870.