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A waiter takes an order in the dining

A waiter takes an order in the dining room at Trata in Roslyn. (Nov. 22, 2009) Credit: John Dunn

Open Trata's big, Aegean-blue doors and find Long Island's new Greek classic. Trata unveils in Roslyn as its Water Mill namesake closes for the season. Chef Jose Luis Falcon moves west. And the new Trata is even better.

Stirring Greek fare and seafood already have made this dramatic dining room a popular destination. It arrives awash in white, accented with vividly striped banquettes and bold-hued pillows, divided by intricate, sheer curtains. The noise level can rise quickly and the bar scene becomes very active. But these are only distractions. Stop by the fish display, starring imports and locals on ice, to be sold by the pound, typically $29-$40 per, and see why the restaurant is as packed as the counter. The original Trata is in Manhattan. The spirit of all three: the Acropolis.

THE BEST

Traditional Greek spreads, from garlicky skordalia to roe-flecked taramasalata, peak here. So do perfectly grilled octopus and sweet, dewy sea scallops wrapped in crisp threads of phyllo. The big cheese: salty, fried kefalograviera, under a fall-fruit compote and toasted almonds, drizzled with spicy honey, which vies with snowy, pan-fried feta, sesame-crusted and served with cherry tomatoes, olives and figs. Spanakopita, an individual phyllo packet full of spinach, feta and leeks, makes you forget every imitator. Light alternatives: ouzo-cured salmon rolls filled with crab meat; a barely bound crab cake with yogurt tartar sauce.

The whole, grilled fish may include red snapper and black sea bass; fagri, turbot, Dover sole, carefully charcoal-grilled and dabbed with lemony sauce. Delicately charred tiger shrimp from the African coast, usually three to a pound, approach lobster-tail size. Carnivores can savor tender braised lamb. A three-cup finale of Greek yogurt, topped with sour cherry, fig and quince, is wonderful; Manouri cheesecake, close.

THE REST

An overdone tuna burger; hard marinated beets; satisfactory grilled calamari; walnut-cinnamon cake, on the dry side.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Opa!

Trata is located at 1446 Old Northern Blvd.,  Roslyn, 516-625-2600, trata.com

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