Trento, the handsome restaurant that rises in the old Crazy Donkey space on Route 110, reminds me of a dull, mass-market poster in a polished, carefully made frame.
The new spot opposite Republic Airport catches your eye but not your appetite. Considering all the work, effort and money that went into building Trento, there's litle evidence that very much went into the food.
To be upbeat and optimistic, better dishes include well-sauced rounds of stuffed eggplant and blond, tender fried calamari; crisp and tasty fried zucchini and respectable "Parmigiano truffle fries."
But the skippables range from a dull wedge salad to pasty pasta with clam in white wine sauce.
And what's dubbed veal chop Milanese arrives breaded and buried under bland mushrooms, artichokes and Marsala sauce. It's a $35 travesty, as far removed from Milan as Trento is from Trent.
Trento has been around since July. It needs more time, or maybe a Counter-Reformation.
Trento, 1058 Broadhollow Rd., Farmingdale; 631-501-0303.