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Tres Palms in Babylon: First bites

Tres Palms restaurant in Babylon. (Sept. 2012)

Tres Palms restaurant in Babylon. (Sept. 2012)

Summer has slipped into fall, but Tres Palms holds onto warm days year-round. You'd expect that from a spot that takes its name from a surfing destination in Puerto Rico.

The new restaurant, perched at the Hi-Hook Fishing Station marina, offers a view of Great South Bay and a sunny style to go with its New American-traditional American menu.

Try the good New England-style clam chowder and fried oysters; pan-roasted local fluke and a thick cut of striped bass, crisp-skinned and snowy. The wobbly crème caramel is a satisfying finale, unless you're stubbornly drawn to a banana split.

The chef is Mark Farrell, formerly of Lucy's in Babylon.

Tres Palms, 16 East Court, Babylon; 631-482-1465.

Tres Palms in Babylon.

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