Summer has slipped into fall, but Tres Palms holds onto warm days year-round. You'd expect that from a spot that takes its name from a surfing destination in Puerto Rico.
The new restaurant, perched at the Hi-Hook Fishing Station marina, offers a view of Great South Bay and a sunny style to go with its New American-traditional American menu.
Try the good New England-style clam chowder and fried oysters; pan-roasted local fluke and a thick cut of striped bass, crisp-skinned and snowy. The wobbly crème caramel is a satisfying finale, unless you're stubbornly drawn to a banana split.
The chef is Mark Farrell, formerly of Lucy's in Babylon.
Tres Palms, 16 East Court, Babylon; 631-482-1465.
Tres Palms in Babylon.