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Tullulah's in Bay Shore: First bites

Fried oysters three ways are served at Tullulah's

Fried oysters three ways are served at Tullulah's in Bay Shore. (Jan. 2014) Credit: Newsday / Peter Gianotti

Chef Steven Scalesse packs big flavors into the small plates at Tullulah's, his urban and urbane restaurant that brings a city vibe to Bay Shore.

Tullulah's is like a triptych, divided into three spirited sections: a cafe-style spot up front and a nouveau Brooklyn room in the back, linked by a sharp, popular bar and the scene that goes with it. Exposed beams, spackled walls, a faded oriental carpet, a bust of JFK, a Lincoln portrait outside the kitchen, plenty of chalk art -- and it whimsically comes together.

So does Scalesse's very good, very focused food. Winter favorites: fried oysters, crisp and sparked with fennel-fern and sriracha aioli; nutty, sweet pan-seared scallops with tender French green lentils and chive cream; sliced chorizo sausage, with brown-sugar glazed apples; and a snappy charcuterie board highlighted by spicy, dry Calabrian sausage and aged manchego cheese.

Accompany these with one of the fine local beers or a glass of wine from the very drinkable list.

Tullulah's 10 Fourth Ave., Bay Shore; 631-969-9800.

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