The essential Long Island restaurant is devoted to two major food groups: pizza and pasta. Almost every neighborhood has one. Here are three worth a taste.
Umberto’s in Manhasset is the sleek offspring of the original Umberto’s in New Hyde Park, a landmark that opened in 1965. The newcomer adds to the repertoire but keeps the tradition intact. Recommended: pizzettas, or smaller pies, especially the prosciutto-arugula-mozzarella combo and the “cafona” with potatoes, cured pork shoulder and mozzarella; the white pizza; the Grandma pie; linguine with clams; spaghettoni with tomato and basil; rigatoni Bolognese; meat lasagna.
Umberto’s, 429 Plandome Rd., Manhasset, 516-472-7801, umbertosmanhasset.com $$
Tre Sorelle in Sea Cliff definitely knows pasta and pizza. You could pick at random. Recommended: linguine with white or red clam sauce, spaghetti with garlic and olive oil, baked ziti with eggplant, lasagna, baked papparedelle Bolognese the eggplant rollatine pizza, the white pizza, Sicilian marinara pizza, Margherita pizza. $$
Tre Sorelle, 347 Glen Cove Ave., Glen Head, 516-676-2900, tresorelleristorante.com
Mannino’s in Smithtown is a more casual restaurant in the Mannino’s group, especially good for pizza and pasta. Recommended: the Grandpa pie with breadcrumbs and red onion; Sicilian, white, eggplant, marinara, Margherita, and stuffed pizzas; angel hair puttanesca; meat lasagna; spaghetti Bolognese; orecchiette with broccoli rabe and sausage.
Mannino’s, 40 E. Main St., Smithtown, 631-724-0210, manninosrestaurant.com