Last year, North Fork Oyster Company in Greenport earned three stars. Under a new chef, the Stirling Square restaurant does again.
Alex Algieri runs this kitchen now. He stands out with a menu full of dishes you'd want to eat this minute. And on a rainy, miserable Monday, just thinking about his cooking makes you feel sunny.
Try an excellent summer soup: chilled local potato, finished with applewood-smoked bacon, leeks and thyme. Or sample his "drumettes" of duck from Crescent Duck Farm, juiced up with Asian-style barbecue sauce and sesame aioli.
The delectable Maine lobster risotto is enriched with heirloom tomatoes, baby spinach and Parmesan cheese; and the coconut-crusted local sea bass delivers fine flavor plus crunch.
North Fork Oyster Company, 300 Main St., Greenport; 631-477-6840.